TRENDS WOMEN’S FW26

For me, the runway has always been more than just an arena for clothes. It is a cultural barometer for moods, needs and visions of the future. It tells us something about the emotions we are searching for right now. As an art form, fashion is perhaps the most immediate form of functional art we have, which is exactly why it is so fascinating in its ability to paint a precise picture of who we are and where we are heading.

When designers respond to economic and social uncertainty with strong silhouettes, rich materials and emotional expression, they send valuable signals about what we are searching for: security, identity, escapism or optimism. Reading trends from the runway is therefore not just about fashion trends, but about understanding the cultural movements of our time and how they affect our emotional lives. This season’s runway shows are sending several very clear messages.

ROMANTIC MAXIMALISM

This autumn’s fashion landscape moves clearly away from “quiet luxury” and into a more theatrical and tactile direction. On the AW26 runways, I am spotting a strong return of brocade, jacquard, velvet, metallic surfaces and heavy accessories. Materials that signal decadence, heritage and craftsmanship.

Across both fashion and interior design, I see a growing appetite for opulent textures and historical references, particularly inspired by couture, Victorian silhouettes and aristocratic glamour. Perhaps we simply need a refill of strong emotions and mature glamour after slightly too many seasons of whispering beige minimalism?

Brocade is no longer reserved solely for eveningwear, but is now appearing in coats, tailoring and everyday silhouettes to create a more dramatic expression. Take inspiration from Jonathan Anderson for Dior and pair touches of brocade with denim and heavy wool fabrics. Or combine richly ornamented textiles with sharp tailoring and modern styling to avoid the look becoming too animated.

The phrase that captures this feeling we seem to crave is Romantic Maximalism. A sense of liberating escapism, comforting nostalgia and strong emotion during a time marked by global uncertainty.

HIGH NECKLINES IN FOCUS

High necklines are making a clear comeback this autumn after several seasons dominated by deep necklines and minimalist silhouettes. On the AW26 runways, we see everything from fitted turtlenecks and funnel necks to dramatic standing collars and sculptural necklines that frame the face and create a more sophisticated silhouette.

Designers such as Alaïa and Altuzarra use the high neckline as a way of adding strength, protection and elegance to their collections.

The trend is closely connected to the spirit of the moment and fashion’s movement towards more decadent and refined expressions. High necklines add drama and structure while reinforcing the season’s focus on layering, texture and aristocratic references. I spotted classic turtlenecks, high silk collars and sharp funnel-neck silhouettes on runways in New York, Copenhagen and Paris.

Could this perhaps be autumn’s easiest styling trick for updating the wardrobe?

RED HOT

Red is one of the most striking colour trends on the runway this autumn. From deep cherry tones and mahogany to vivid tomato and poppy reds, the colour dominates collections across several influential fashion houses. Designers are using red both in monochrome looks and as strong contrast elements in outerwear, tailoring and dramatic details.

After several seasons dominated by beige, grey and muted minimalism, red marks a clear shift towards more emotional and expressive fashion.

Our attraction to red right now is also connected to psychology and the current cultural climate. During periods marked by social tension, many people gravitate towards colours that signal energy, strength and visibility. Red is associated with power, courage and passion, and works as a visual reaction against a more restrained and controlled aesthetic.

I clearly see fashion once again being used as an emotional expression and identity marker, a way of being seen in a time where many of us feel the need for stronger individuality and optimism.

SHE IS THE MAN

Broad shoulders, oversized blazers, long trousers with volume and classic menswear tailoring translated into a modern female wardrobe. Everywhere I turn, I see traditionally masculine elements dominating autumn and winter dressing for women.

At Saint Laurent, sharp tuxedo jackets and dark tailoring inspired by 1980s power dressing dominated the runway, while Max Mara presented oversized camel tailoring with architectural shoulders and relaxed authority. Gucci offered a more feminine interpretation with precise blazers combined with slim skirts and corporate references.

One of my personal favourites, Schiaparelli, chose a glamorous yet masculine version of the tailoring trend, featuring a vanilla-coloured glossy suit with a matching waistcoat and a silk scarf tied around the neck.

Perhaps it is not surprising that the suit, traditionally associated with strength and control, is experiencing a major revival right now. Androgynous tailoring gives women the opportunity to take up space, both physically and visually, through broad proportions and defined structure.

At the same time, these masculine lines are balanced with softer styling, fluid fabrics and sensuality, making this season’s look more complex than traditional power dressing.

The trend also reflects a broader movement towards gender-fluid fashion, where the boundaries between menswear and womenswear continue to blur. On the runway, we saw references to classic menswear wardrobes at brands such as Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein and Valentino, where tailoring was used as a symbol of both authority and individuality.

HIGH SLITS

Long pencil skirts with front slits are a defining autumn trend that has made a clear comeback on the runway. The look signals a new direction for the feminine silhouette, one that feels more structured, more sensual, yet still sharp and controlled.

The skirts typically fall below the knee or all the way to the ankle, featuring either high or low slits that create movement and break up the otherwise narrow shape.

On the runways, we see everything from classic wool and tailored versions at brands working with contemporary power dressing, to more glamorous interpretations in leather, satin and technical materials. The combination of length and slit creates an interesting balance between restraint and revelation. A styling approach that makes the garment feel both sophisticated and modern.

The trend ties closely to autumn’s broader movement towards sharp, body-conscious silhouettes and an updated version of 1990s minimalism. Pencil skirts are styled with masculine blazers, high necklines and heavy coats, creating contrast between slim lower silhouettes and structured upper layers.

The front slit also serves both a practical and visual purpose. It adds movement to an otherwise narrow silhouette while making the garment easier to wear in motion. The result is a trend that combines elegance, control and subtle sensuality, perfectly aligned with the season’s more mature and refined aesthetic.

THE RETURN OF VELVET

Heavy, soft and layered with a deep surface that catches the light like shadows in motion. On the runway, velvet is no longer worn as an accent, but as a complete expression from head to toe. A textile monologue without interruption.

At Armani, velvet moves through the collection in muted, almost fluid silhouettes. Dark navy, smoky green and deep black tones transform the body into quiet architecture. The garments become a study in restrained drama, where the shine of the fabric carries more of the expression than the silhouettes themselves.

Dior allows velvet to feel both romantic and historical at the same time. Jackets and dresses take on an aristocratic weight, as though carrying echoes of grand halls, portraits and ancient rituals, translated for a modern woman who does not need decoration to command presence, only the authority of the fabric itself.

At Victoria Beckham, velvet becomes sharper and more contemporary, almost surgical in its precision. Here the material is not nostalgic, but sharp, used in monochrome tailoring and clean silhouettes where softness collides with structure and creates a quiet tension between comfort and control.

In this way, velvet becomes the language of the season. A material that does not shout, but whispers with weight. It wraps around the body in a kind of dark glow and makes fashion sensual once again, as though the world is searching for something that can both protect and seduce at the same time.