The Shirt Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Collars, Cuffs, Buttons, Fabrics and Fit

When a customer comes into the store looking for a new shirt, there are several ways to help them find one that fits perfectly.

– If it’s a casual shirt, most people working in the store will be able to choose a shirt with a good fit simply by judging it visually or by having the customer try it on. If it’s for a suit, however, you’ll need to bring out the measuring tape, says Jostein Gjengstø, owner of Jostein R Gjengstø Agenturer, the Norwegian representative for Stenströms.

–The first thing I measure is the neck circumference. I place the measuring tape fairly snugly around the neck, just below the Adam’s apple. I then add approximately two centimetres, depending on how loose or tight the customer wants the collar to fit.

Collar Styles

The collar should fit the wearer properly, but the collar style should also suit both the outfit and the occasion. There are many different collar styles to choose from.

Classic Kent Collar

A pointed collar that frames a tie beautifully. It is the most common and versatile collar style. When worn with a blazer, the lapels will not cover the collar points.

Button-Down Collar

A collar fastened with buttons to keep it neatly in place. It originated with polo players in England in the late nineteenth century, who wanted to prevent their collars from flapping during play.

Button-Under Collar

A variation of the button-down collar with the buttons hidden beneath the collar. This creates a cleaner, more refined appearance while still keeping the collar securely in place.

Cutaway Collar

A wide-spread collar with generous space between the collar points, allowing the tie knot to be displayed prominently

Wing Collar

A minimalist collar with small folded points, traditionally worn with a bow tie for formal occasions and with white tie attire.

Gjengstø explains that producing a collar of the highest quality is almost an art form.

– A great deal of work and craftsmanship goes into the collars of the finest shirts. From start to finish, the process typically involves around 25 individual production steps. The collar is sewn inside out, ensuring that all seams remain hidden on the inside of the fabric.

– It is much easier to make a stiff collar than a soft one. A soft collar can quickly lose its shape, so the real craftsmanship lies in creating a soft collar that looks elegant and maintains its shape without the collar points bending.

– Stenströms collars are made with collar stays inserted into the collar, ensuring that the collar points do not crease or bend,” he says.

Shirts and Fit

The next step is finding a shirt with the right fit for the customer.

–For someone with a relatively slim build, Slim Fit or Slimline is an excellent choice. For someone with a fuller figure, a Classic Fit works well. If the customer falls somewhere between these two body types, Regular Fit or Fitted Body is usually the best place to start,” says Gjengstø.

The shirt should fit properly across the shoulders, chest, midsection and around the hips.

However, there are many different body types. If standard sizing is not suitable, a made-to-measure shirt is the best option for achieving the perfect fit. We’ll return to this later in the article.

The buttons on the shirt placket are typically made from mother-of-pearl or protein resin.

– We use mother-of-pearl and protein resin buttons because we believe they offer the best combination of quality, sustainability and design. Mother-of-pearl buttons are unique and handcrafted from shells. Each shell is carefully selected based on the colour, size and thickness of the button, says Gjengstø.

Fabric Qualities

Stenströms primarily uses two-fold cotton (double-twisted yarn) in its shirts.

The weave types include:

• Oxford
• Twill
• Fil-à-fil
• Flannel
• Chambray

– The seams are sewn using a single-needle stitch. The seam is stitched once, folded over, and stitched again. This means the shirt looks virtually identical on the inside as it does on the outside. More importantly, it provides outstanding durability, says the expert.

The stitching is exceptionally neat and dense, with a minimum of seven stitches per centimetre, making the seams highly durable and resistant to twisting, even after repeated washing.

Among shirt fabrics, Egyptian cotton is regarded as one of the finest qualities available. The fibre length ranges from 3.8 to 4.4 centimetres.

– Egyptian cotton does not necessarily come from cotton plantations in Egypt. In fact, less than 1.8 per cent of the world’s cotton production consists of long-staple fibres, which are used, among other things, in the production of shirts, says Gjengstø.

Sea Island Cotton is the most exclusive cotton available. It is harvested only from cotton plantations on islands off the south-eastern coast of the United States and on a handful of Caribbean islands, including Barbados and Jamaica. These cotton fibres measure between 3.5 and 6.4 centimetres, resulting in exceptional quality and durability.

The Most Common Shirt Patterns

The most common shirt patterns include:

• Bengal stripe
• Pinstripe
• Houndstooth
• Tattersall
• Windowpane

Choosing the Right Shirt for the Occasion

There are many elements that define the quality, style and fit of a shirt. The only thing we have not yet covered is which shirts are suitable for different occasions and dress codes.

– For a suit, the most common choices are a Classic Kent Collar, Button-Down Collar or Cutaway Collar. In some circles, double cuffs are expected, but otherwise they are optional when wearing a suit, explains Gjengstø.

For black tie, a shirt should have double cuffs and a concealed front placket, unless decorative shirt studs are being worn.

– For black tie, the shirt should have either a Classic Kent Collar or a Wing Collar, allowing the bow tie to be properly displayed. The front of the shirt may feature a pleated bib, with or without texture. Decorative shirt studs can also be worn, typically between two and four.

White tie is the most formal dress code.

– For white tie, you should wear a white shirt with a Wing Collar and a stiff piqué front, together with a white waistcoat and a white bow tie in the same fabric, finished with decorative shirt studs. The Freemasons are known for wearing a black bow tie and black waistcoat, but that is their own custom. Traditional etiquette calls for a white waistcoat and a white bow tie, he says.

Made-to-Measure and Alterations

Made-to-measure shirts have become increasingly popular in recent years. They are higher-quality shirts that are tailored to fit the wearer perfectly.

Photo: Stenströms – Made-to-measure shirts are becoming increasingly popular

This may also be because standard sizing is not suitable – the sleeves, neck, chest or waist may be too large or too small – or because the customer wants a shirt with a particular design, a unique collar, an original pattern or a specific fabric.

– We are seeing growing interest in made-to-measure shirts, and we can adjust every seam. The most common alterations involve the sleeves, chest and waist. If a customer has a larger stomach, for example, we tailor the shirt so that it is slightly longer at the front and add an extra button, explains Gjengstø.

Sleeves can always be shortened. However, if they are too short, you will need to find a supplier or shirt model that offers different sleeve lengths, or order a made-to-measure shirt.

– I usually measure by asking the customer to hold their arms out in front of them, like a waiter carrying a tray. When the arms are bent, the shirt sleeve should extend just beyond the wrist bone. Otherwise, the sleeves will be too short.

According to the expert, the ideal length of a shirt ultimately comes down to personal preference.